|
© 2004, Jon-David Headrick Selections, LLC. All Rights Reserved. |
|
that as I was walking from my car toward the little winery of Domaine Ogereau for the first time, I was dubious that I would find something from Anjou that really startled my senses. After sizing me up with some very tough questions, Vincent Ogereau, the tuba player in the local village band of Saint Lambert, starting pulling some corks. We started with the reds, as is his practice, and as I look back at my notes from that first tasting, I find “dark, brooding fruit” and “is this for real?” just to describe his basic Anjou. Other winemakers who I respect greatly had told me that his work was extraordinary, and I expected the wines to be good, but as I was leaving the winery and walking back toward my little Renault after tasting, I remember being stunned. If the Anjou could consistently produce what Vincent Ogereau is turning out, the world would be drinking more Anjou.
Domaine Ogereau is a pristine island in a vinous sea of mediocrity. His small vine holdings never see a non-organic product. Only the yeasts that Mother Nature provides are used in fermentation. Whole truckloads of fruit fall to the ground during his extreme green harvest. His team passes through the vines time and time again during harvest to ensure the perfect level of ripeness. Fermentation for the sweet wines is slow - very, very slow (often up to 12 months.) And Vincent labors all year in this fashion to turn out minuscule quantities of wine. He will never be rich, nor does he ever want to be. He is a man on a mission. |
|
Based in the tiny village of Saint Lambert, Domaine Ogereau is ideally located for the production of sweet wines. The vineyards surrounding the town are so impressive that the appellation of Coteaux du Layon has attached a sub-zone designation to wines coming from this town (Coteaux du Layon Saint Lambert). The sweet wines from the property are perfumed with heady mixes of dried fruits, candied walnuts, and wildflower honey. They offer amazing acidity, even in warm vintages, brought on by the location of Vincent’s better vineyards.
Monsieur Ogereau’s Anjou blanc, a wet-limestone and peach beauty of a Chenin Blanc, is the perfect example of why these wines are some of the best in the world with food. The reds, starting with the basic Anjou and working up towards his single vineyard Anjou-Villages, are dark, serious, and progressive in style. The time that Vincent spends holding the hands of these wines as they inch toward maturity is impressive, from his vineyard work to careful batonnage.
I haven’t conjured up enough nerve yet to ask Vincent to play a local song on his tuba, but I hear he’s very good. I suspect he is if his dedication to his instrument is anywhere near his dedication to his vinous craft. Everyone should be so fortunate as to taste the wines of Vincent Ogereau. |
|
anjou blanc
Cépage: 100% Chenin Blanc Vinification: Manual harvest, fermentation sur lie. Élevage: Elevage in tonnes of 500 liters until May Vineyard: Schist-laden parcel in Saint Lambert.
anjou rouge
Cépage: 100% Cabernet Franc Vinification: Very long maceration, controlled temp. Élevage: 12 months in cuve. Vineyard: Schist-laden parcel in Saint Lambert.
anjou-villages
Cépage: 100% Cabernet Franc Vinification: Very long maceration, controlled temp. Élevage: 12 months in cuve. Vineyard: Schist-laden parcel in Saint Lambert. |
|
Vincent Ogereau |
|
Green Harvest |
|
“Soil” in Houssaye |
|
anjou-villages “cote de la houssaye”
Cépage: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Vinification: Slow, controlled fermentation, pigeage. Élevage: 14 months in cuve. Vineyard: Spectacular single vineyard with Southeast exposure, schist & gravel soil.
coteaux du layon saint lambert
Cépage: 100% Chenin Blanc Vinification: Extremely long fermentation Élevage: Elevage in tonnes of 500 liters Vineyard: Schist-laden parcel in Saint Lambert. |
